Bagora - Exploring lesser known destination in North Bengal

Sometimes we feel the urge of exploring some lesser known destinations during our trips. Bagora, a quaint village, located at a height of 7100 feet above sea level, in the Darjeeling district is one such destination. Nestled amidst pine forests and rhododendron trees with majestic views of Mt. Kanchenjungha and the meandering River Teesta, this romantic getaway is the perfect spot for a quaint holiday away from the hustle and bustle of Darjeeling town. Perched on a ridge at 2,339 metres above sea level, this town in north Bengal is still unspoiled by the demands of tourism. 

Our train reached New Jalpaiguri around 7 am where we met our Sherpa driver Nobula who drove us through the serpentine Hill Cart Road (NH 55) — intertwining with the toy train tracks — from Siliguri. The drive was awesome, misty roads with cool breeze, and made me nostalgic. This is one road I have traveled almost every year during my childhood days - summer holidays to Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok were like a ritual as my mom and me are both big fans of North Bengal. 

We crossed Kurseong and then stopped at Margaret Hope's Tea Center (remember Aparna Sen's iconic movie "Titli") shop to pick up Darjeeling Tea. The tea estates seen on one side of the road are mystic and beautiful to watch. I was in love all over again :)

We drove up to Dilaram before taking the right turn. The 3 km road stretch is like a long black ribbon lying in a virgin green forest of silver fir, oak, pine and birch. The forest is richer than those near Darjeeling. On reaching Bagora, we checked into our home stay "Diki House", situated on a hillock. The place is managed by a lady (Diki Lama) and her family.  Like all hilly folks, she is fair and always smiling and her cheeks are red like a tomato. The rooms were comfortable with all the modern amenities (TV is not available due to signal challenges) and we got amazing home cooked meals for lunch and dinner.  The place gives a bird’s eye view of the entire settlement with the mighty Kanchenjunga for backdrop. However, the thick fog prevented me from viewing the Kanchenjunga in its might.

There was a small village school nearby and we could see the kids bustling with excitement during the lunch hour. The innocent faces of these kids were really cute and I could not resist some shots of their innocence.

After lunch, we rested for sometime and then decided to go for a walk. I walked till the Forest Rest House and the timber yard and the start of the Kurseong Air Force base camp. 

During my walk, we also met a group of kids returning from their school and the excitement on the faces of these kids were really infectious.

The flora and fauna on both sides of the roads were also a treat to watch. It is hard to believe that these orchids are growing on the street sides and not on a specialized garden.

Scenery and serenity come together in Bagora, offering a soothing refuge from the frenetic city life. A couple of days stay at Bagora gives you the feel of mystic deciduous forestry all around with huge Sal and Dhupi Trees, innumerable chirping birds everywhere and suddenly appearing and disappearing small fog accumulations. Apart from taking long walks, there's not much to do but relax - A very good option if you are looking for a place to relax in the mountains and yet want to stay away from the crowd of the more popular destinations!!

Pochampally - Where Colour meets Creativity!!

Pochampally is the most typical weaving village in Nalgonda District of Telangana. It is the place where threads and colours find their way into the hands of skillful weavers and meander into the market as beautiful sarees and dress material  Every member of the artisan household is closely integrated with the intricate tie-and-dye process of Ikkat weaving. The craft has earned a reputation worldwide and a glimpse at the dexterous village folk explains why this enduring tradition has not only survived but also thrived! 

On a Sunday morning, I joined the TCPC gang of photographers for a tour of this village. It is about 60 KM from Hitech city in Hyderabad and if you start early you can reach Bhoodan Pochampally in about 1.5 hours. It was the day of Sankranti and hence the first sight that greeted us was colorful rangolis in front of the village houses - the artistic touch to it clearly displayed the creativity of these simple villagers.

Our next stop was the Pochampally Museum. The complex is situated next to a serene lake called Pochampally Cheruvu, and looks more like a sprawling bungalow, but when you look at the huge gate you see the signboard of the Rural Tourism complex. Inside the complex is a statue of both Vinoba Bhave and Sri Ram Chandra Reddy the Zamindar or landlord who came up with the idea of donating land. (This was before land grabbing became an issue of prestige for the rich and powerful in India). This reminded me that Pochampally is also known for being the launch pad for Acharya Vinoba Bhave's Bhoodan Movement.

There is a nominal ticket to enter the museum. Although it was a holiday, one of the employees there was kind enough to open the museum for us and we clicked some pictures inside the complex. In one of the rooms there are different kinds of spinning wheels, one made of wood like Bapu Gandhi must have used and then next to it is one made of using a cycle wheel. 

The most interesting was the next room with various kinds of looms that are used in Pochampally village, the guide gave us a demo of how they are used and all of us keenly listened to him and clicked some pictures. 

In next room there are Sarees weaved in different part of Andhra Pradesh are displayed on both mannequins as well as on walls like drapery. It is interesting to know that different part of state have their own distinctive styles of weaving but what is clear is that Pochampally is the most famous of all the styles weaved in the state. There was also a weaved portrait of Acharya Vinobha Bhave.

Overall it was a good experience to start from the museum and rural tourism complex before we visited other places in the Pochampally village to see the weaving process—tying and dyeing, color boiling, bobbin weaving and finally the finished fabric. 

We saw an open door after entering the village and we just barged in and requested if we can see how the saree is made. The family members were very happy to see us and welcomed with open heart. We settled down to observe the process of preparing a saree all by hand and were simply astonished for the amount of work that goes into one single saree. The person who was working there mentioned that it takes almost 4 days of continuous work (10 hours each day) to get one saree ready. The precision with which she was working was simply immaculate. For this rigorous and precise effort that she puts in day in and day out, all that she earns is Rs. 600 per saree, which makes it a meager Rs. 4500 per month. Any guess how much would that same saree cost in the market? I am sure atleast few of you might have guessed it right. It costs a minimum of Rs. 4500.

We thanked the family for the demonstration before leaving. However, when we offered money to them, they sweetly declined clearly showing the simplicity and honesty of these poor villages.

Overall it was a good learning experience for all of us and we had a great time. After watching the process, the only thing left for us was to do some shopping. The group members shopped everything from a saree, kurtis, bags, etc. and finally return home with all the beautiful memories!!

Jaisalmer - The Golden City

A city that has come back almost from the dead in the past half-century, Jaisalmer may be remote but it’s certainly not forgotten – indeed it’s one of Rajasthan’s biggest tourist destinations, and few people come here without climbing onto a camel in the surrounding Thar Desert. My association with Jaisalmer started from the day when I read "Sonar Kella" (or The Golden Fort) by Satyajit Ray. Along with Feluda and team, I also explored the fort and took a camel safari in the desert. The movie completed my visualization of this beautiful city and the longing to be physically present kept alive my passion for the city. 

During my recent tour of Rajasthan, Jaisalmer was the first city from where we started our journey. We started from Jaipur early morning and reached the city by early evening (almost 10 hours journey through Ajmer, Pokran, Bikaner and Jodhpur). The first sight that greeted us just outside the outskirts of the main city was a hoard of camels passing by confirming the nearness to the desert and the main attraction of this city. 

After reaching the city, we first checked into our hotel (Hotel Tokyo Palace) - The location was excellent- less than 5 min walk from the bus station and just behind the fort, yet away from the hustle and bustle of the markets/town. The hotel has really charming rooms with all the inspiring atmosphere of the "Arabian nights" tale. We stayed only one night, we wish we could have stayed the 1000 others! From the rooftop restaurant, we could the see the fort lighted up in the night. The fort of Jaisalmer is a breathtaking sight: a massive sandcastle rising from the sandy plains like a mirage from a bygone era. No place better evokes exotic camel-train trade routes and desert mystery. We went to bed early tonight after our long journey. 

Next morning after breakfast, we went to visit the fort. We entered the fort from its east side and passed through four massive gates on the zigzagging route to the upper part. The fourth gate opens into a large square, Dashera Chowk, where Jaisalmer Fort’s uniqueness becomes apparent: this is a living fort, with about 3000 people residing within its walls. It’s honeycombed with narrow, winding lanes, all of them paved in stone and lined with houses and temples – along with a large number of handicraft shops, guesthouses, restaurants and massage/beauty parlors, just to remind you that you are in the age of 21st-century tourism, not the middle ages. The carvings on the jharokhas on some of the rich merchant's houses were beautiful. Rajasthan is colorful, vibrant and absolutely artistic - a tour inside the fort confirms the same. 

There are 7 beautifully carved temples inside the fort walls built in between from 12th century to 15th century. We visited the very first temple which is dedicated to Chandraprabhu, who is the eighth Tirthankar (Jain God). The painting on the ceiling was still colorful and the temple authorities had covered it with a net protecting from birds.

While walking through the lanes, I also came across various shops which sells miniature paintings and artists working on the same. The intricate workmanship actually left me spellbound and I sat for sometime watching the artist in action.

No tour in Jaisalmer is complete without seeing the havelis of the rich merchants. Among all the havelis, we decided to visit the more famous Patwa-ki-haveli which towers over a narrow lane, its intricate stonework like honey-coloured lace. It's a collection of five houses, each one for the son of a wealthy trader who made money lending to the government. One of the havelis (closest to the street) has been restored and turned into a government museum. The carvings with show of glitz inside the houses were put together to showcase the owner's status and wealth. We spent an hour going through the massive rooms and its awe inspiring display. 

As we are just spending one day, we skipped Gadisar Lake and the Desert Museum. It was time for us to have lunch and leave for Sam Sand Dunes which is 45 km towards the west of the Jaisalmer city. It is a barren yet beautiful shifting sand dunes adjoining the village Sam. Our destination was Winds Desert Camp (our accommodation for the night within the desert). We had quite a lot of anticipation about the place as we were not sure what to expect. What greeted us was 20 beautifully and elegantly decorated tents covering center room with wooden furniture, veranda covered with mosquito nets and attached bathroom with modern amenities. The air-cool tents made our stay extremely comfortable.

We quickly freshened up and then the camp jeep took us to the starting point of the camel safari. Sam has a truly magnificent stretch of sweeping dunes, with sparse or no vegetation. The best way to get here, of course, is on camel back along the breathtaking crests and troughs in the hearts of the Thar Desert. I had quite a lot of experience in riding camels during my one and half year stay in Jaipur. However, actually riding one and travelling more than 1 km in the desert is an entirely different experience - something that cannot be described in words. It was a memorable ride and we enjoyed our time at the dunes duly entertained by local folk singers and dancers while watching the sun setting in the horizon. The experience is truly mesmerizing and you really would not want to leave!!

After the sunset, we had no other choice but to return to our camp. We were given a warm welcome with aarti & tika and the staff served tea, coffee and cookies. We were then escorted to the show area. We enjoyed wonderful Rajasthani folk performance - talented singers and dancers put up quite a show for almost 3 hours.

The day spent in the city of Jaisalmer was truly amazing in every sense. The historic fort, the camel ride in the dunes and finally the folk performance gave us a real taste of this historic city - a memory that is unforgettable!!

Great Hyderabad Adventure Club - GHAC Blog: Maredumilli Trek – In the lap of Nature

Great Hyderabad Adventure Club - GHAC Blog: Maredumilli Trek – In the lap of Nature

Lonavala & Khandala - Twin Hill Stations of Maharashtra

Summer is not a time you enjoy being in Hyderabad with the extreme hot weather conditions. Everyone looks for the opportunity to take a summer break and heading off to a cooler location. Me, being the wanderer, cannot be left behind. So, one weekend, I planned a trip with my mother (who has been visiting me) to the twin hill stations of Maharashtra - Lonavala and Khandala. These hill stations are very popular getaway spots for people from Mumbai and Pune, which are very well-linked with Lonavala by road and rail. Monsoons are the best time to visit Lonavala/Khandala.

We took the Shatabdi from Secunderabad station in the afternoon in an AC Chair Car. The journey was good with steady supply of snacks and finally dinner and the quality of food was great compared to railways. We reached Pune around 11.15 pm and stayed at a hotel near the station. Next morning, we got up early to take the Pragati Express to reach Lonavala Station. An auto took us to our hotel (reserved earlier) - Sunny's retreat. 

After a quick shower and breakfast, we decided to start our sight seeing.  Our first stop was the Bhushi Dam - one of the majestic picnic spots in Lonavala. The Dam is magnificent during the monsoons with water gushing out through the dam making exhilarating waterfalls. The Dam is located at the backdrop of scenic hilly terrains and lush green environments. Calm environment and cool atmosphere add the beauty of this site.

Next we went to see the Duke's Nose which is also another popular tourist spot. This cliff resembles the nose of the Duke of Wellington, which explains its intriguing name.  It is a popular viewpoint as it offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains, valleys and forests. The place is crowded with tourists, and the scenery was beautiful.

Our next stop was Tiger's Leap which is another beautiful scenic spot. Tiger's Leap also known as Tiger's Point is a cliff-top with a sheer drop of over 650 m, giving an extensive view. When viewing the valley from a certain point at this location, one has the illusion of a tiger leaping across the valley, hence the name.  The echoes caused by dropping rocks into the crevasse is another attraction.

The monsoon had rendered the valley lush green and increased the beauty of the place multiple times. We were lucky to have an overcast sky but no rain which made the tour even better. 

After that, we went to the Rajmachi Garden where we were greeted by a family of monkeys.  It offers a spectacular view of the surroundings. You can see the Mumbai-Pune expressway from the park.

The next place we went to visit was the Lonavala Wax Museum. The Celebrity Was Museum, modelled on the famous Madame Tussauds in London, is located only 3 km away from the railway station at Varsoli, near Toll Plaza and is a new attraction for the tourists. It is a great place (a must visit) and the entry fee is very nominal but the models you get to see are very realistic and they don't charge you extra for clicking photos.  For now they have a pretty small collection of 35-36 models. As soon as you enter you are greeted by a very life-like wax statue of Shivaji. The statues of Rabindranath Tagore, Michael Jackson, Hitler & Charlie Chaplin are really nice too!

After the wax museum visit, we had lunch at KFC. Then our driver proposed to take us to the Karla Caves which is a complex of cave shrines built by Buddhist monks around 3rd to 2nd century B.C. A famous temple of Goddess Ekvira Devi is also present here. You have to climb around 100+ steps to reach the caves. Karla caves encloses Buddha viharas; where the monks used to stay during their meditation period in the caves. The cave encloses sculptures of elephants adorned with metal jewelries and ivory tusks. These caves are in a ruined state due to the absence of maintenance. As mum was tired, I went alone huffing and puffing. 

It was worth the climb to see this beautiful structures, however, sad to see the absence of maintenance. Though it is as beautiful as the Ajantha & Ellora Caves, the maintenance is lot less and the place is less popular as a tourist spot. Most people come to see the temple of Goddess Ekvira Devi, however, few actually enter the caves. 

Tired after a long day, we returned to our hotel by dusk and went to bed early after dinner.  By that time, it had started raining heavily and I just kept praying that the sky clears by morning. 

We got up early the next morning, showered and got ready. The sky was overcast, however, it was not raining. So, after breakfast, we decided to go to the Pavna lake, another popular tourist destination. Pawna Lake (Pavna Lake) is an artificial lake formed by the Pawna Dam built across the Pawna River nearby Lonavala. The lake attracts many tourists due to its imposing natural ambience and cool climate. From the dam site one can view the majestic sights of Tungi, Logagarh and Tikona forts. The way to the lake was mesmerizing with the green valley looking even greener due to the heavy rainfall of last night and there were many small streams and waterfalls on the way. 

By the time, we reached the lake, it started raining heavily and we had to wait at the boat club restaurant nearby. The lake was beautiful, however, the views on the other side could not be seen due to the heavy shower. Lot of people went boating in the rain and came back drenched. However, we enjoyed the rain from the restaurant with hot pakoras and coffee.

After spending a couple of hours watching the lake and enjoying the rain, we started on our way back to Lonavala. On the way, we stopped at a beautiful Temple (I have forgotten the name). The temple is a beautiful marble structure - well maintained and serene. As the rains had stopped, I could manage to get some photographs.

After spending some quality time in the temple and the surrounding garden, we decided to head back. Before returning to the hotel, we went to the market for the famous "Maganlal Chikki" and purchased chikki and walnut fudge. Any visit to Lonavala is incomplete without these delicacies. And the walnut fudge was mouth watering - you would definitely want to go back for more. 

The two days spent in these beautiful place was awesome. Lonavala - Khandala a place where nature is present in all its splendor. Entire region has been blessed with valleys, hills, Milky Waterfalls, Lush Greenery and pleasant cool winds. Words are not enough to describe the beauty for this place - its a must visit!!