Sunday 26 October 2014

Chandigarh - A visit to the Rock Garden

One of the most unique and spectacular attractions in Chandigarh is the Rock Garden.  It is a classic example of innovation and recycling at its best.  Designed to look like a lost kingdom, this sprawling 40 acre garden is situated between the Capitol Complex and Sukhna Lake. The Rock Garden has become almost a heritage site. Artists and connoisseurs from all over the world flock to see this unique and amazing creation. The Concept is daring, the appeal perennial. Visitors leave in admiration, only to return again. In a day visit to Chandigarh, on our way to Manali, we could not resist the chance of visiting this famous place. 



The creator of the rock garden, Nek Chand was a Road Inspector in the Engineering Department of the Chandigarh Capital Project. He roamed the Shivalik foothills and picked up stones resembling bird, animal, human and abstract forms. He brought them on his bicycle. The first seven years (1958-65) were spent collecting natural material, urban and industrial waste. Gradually his collection mounted to a staggering twenty thousand rock form of amazing beauty. These were deposited around a hut which he had built for his work and contemplation. He built the Rock Garden from this improvised hut which was located by the side of a stream. This garden is now open to public and visited by a large number of people all round the year. With time, new additions have been made in the gardens to attract more and more public. We roamed around for about 2 hours in the gardens discovering newer and better masterpieces as we got inner and deeper.







The layout of the garden is based on the fantasy of a lost kingdom. The moment one enters the garden, the small entrance doors which make the head bow, not only creative an ambiance of royal but also impart humbleness. One has to pass through a verity of doorways, archways, vestibules, streets and lanes of different scales and dimensions, each one opening into a new array of display or courtyards and chambers lending an air of suspense and curiosity at every corner, at every turn. Throughout the 10-hectare garden, space is used in sharply contrasting ways, from almost oppressively narrow, steep-sided lanes and tiny Alice-in-Wonderland doorways… to large, confident waterfalls and open terraces. 







An unpretentious entrance leads to a magnificent, almost, surrealist arrangement of rocks, boulders, broken chinaware, discarded fluorescent tubes, broken and cast away glass bangles, building waste, coal and clay-all juxtaposed to create a dream folk world of palaces, soldiers, monkeys, village life, women and temples. Its range of recycled materials is astonishing, from old bricks, foundry waste, broken pots, pieces of tile, crockery, bangles and pebbles to oil drums, baker lite (plug covers), rags, bike frames, wire, rainwater and human hair.





 

The whole experience of visiting the Rock Garden is extraordinary, disorientating and deeply impressive. And, of course, although these photos are chosen to make it seem that we enjoyed its charms in seclusion and quiet contemplation, just as its creator did for the first ten years of its existence, these days its international fame means it is always packed with curious and appreciative visitors.

For more details on the rock garden, visit Nekchand.com

Sunday 12 October 2014

Manali - The Queen of Valleys

Nestled amidst spectacular beauty of snow-clad Himalayas, Kullu Manali is an ideal getaway to explore a fairy tale that is steeped more in adventure and rich cultural heritage. With super views of the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal Ranges, and with mountain adventures beckoning from all directions, Manali is a year-round magnet for tourists. Backpackers come to hang out in the hippy villages around the main town; adventure tourists come for trekking, paragliding, rafting and skiing; and Indian honeymoon couples or families come for the cool mountain air and their first taste of snow on a day trip to Rohtang La. I have been hearing romantic stories about Manali since the time I grew up, however, though I have been to Shimla, never got an opportunity to visit Manali. So, when two of my closest friends suggested a trip, I couldn't resist it.



We took an overnight bus from Chandigarh which has huge glass windows and no curtains. So, when I opened my eyes in the morning, the sight that greeted me was like I have seen in picture post cards - view of a beautiful valley with a river flowing, small cottages in different colors,  the green carpet of trees and plants in the valley, the clouds which gently seem to caress the mountain peaks was a “visual” poetry which can be best seen than written. It was beautiful and though I hardly slept in the night, I couldn't take my eyes off. Manali literally means the abode of Manu and hence this place has huge importance from the perspective of the ethnic culture and tradition of India. River Manalsu hems Old Manali on one side. In its origin, this river is quite aggressive, though it tames down by the time it reaches the Old Manali Bridge. The water is clear and magnificent. 






We reached Old Manali bus stand around 9.30 am and took an auto to our resort - Tree Hill Cottage. It is a lovely 2 storied cottage with wooden paneling and floor boards. It also had a small fireplace which was quaint and exciting for us. The balcony had a beautiful view of the mountain ranges and the green valley. The weather was beautiful with a hint of a slight chill in the air.




After enjoying the scenery from the balcony for sometime, we freshened up and stepped out for a short tour of the valley. In front of our hotel, there was a small apple orchard with the omnipresent apple trees with “red juicy” apples. We also saw men and women picking apples from the trees and putting in their big wicker baskets.




First we stopped at a car hire shop to book a cab for Solang Valley and Rohtang Pass. We wanted to go to Rohtang the next day, however, we were told that Rohtang is closed on Tuesday and hence had to change our plan to Wednesday. We then walked down to the main road and during this short walk we got to see beautiful cottages and mountain goats.




Then we took an auto to Hidimba Devi Temple - It is an ancient cave temple dedicated to Hidimbi Devi, who was a character in the Indian epic, Mahābhārata.  The 500 year old Dhoongri temple is built with wood and has a wooden pagoda with three tapering roofs. The doors and the outer walls are carved very beautifully and intricately. The Hidimba Devi image is in a massive rock cave. The temple is surrounded by a beautiful cedar forest (Dhungri Van Vihar) at the foot of the Himālayas. The sanctuary is built over a huge rock jutting out of the ground, which was worshipped as an image of the deity. There are many animal antlers along with the head of the animal mounted on the walls. About 70 metres away from the temple,there is a shrine dedicated to Goddess Hidimbi's son, Ghatotkacha who was born after she married Bhima. The famous scene from the movie "Roja"where Arvind Swamy was kidnapped by the terrorists was shot here.  
























When we entered the deodar lined walls of the temple compound, the first sight that was greeted us was the fluffy, snow white German rabbits. Localites make a living out of giving the German Rabbits to Tourist. The Tourists pose with the German Rabbits. We also posed with them and had to pay Rs 50/- for each photograph clicked.


After this, we decided to spend the rest of the evening at Johnson's Cafe - It turned out to be a gastronomic delight, thanks to this recommendation by a colleague. I was told that it served one of the best trout dishes. I am usually not the one actively seeking delightful culinary experiences when holidaying, but I must admit Cafe Johnson was one of the highlight of my trip. It is part of the Johnson Hotel, and doesn't seem any different from one of the many resorts around. 




The Cafe does seem quaint and everything that you expect of a nice, cosy restaurant up in the hills -- wood, warmth and wine! Impressed with the decor, we found ourselves a nice table outside. We ordered trout, chicken breasts and whiskey sour - the trout were so delicious that we had to order them twice - simply couldn't stop eating it.


This writing couldn't be complete without mentioning our trip to Rohtang Pass. Though the sky was overcast and it was drizzling, we started early for Rohtang Pass. It is 51 km from Manali at an altitude of 3978m. It is not just any mountain I had seen. The word ‘Rohtang’ is literary translated in Bhoti as ‘pile of corpses’. People die all time from bad weather while trying to cross the Pass. Rohtang Pass is quite significant in this context. It connects Kullu valley to Spiti and Lahaul and the NH-21 highway to Leh also passes through this. 


The road from Manali to Rohtang is one of the most precarious roads I had been to. Higher up, there are no trees but rocks and snow. The mountains are bare and you could see small road cut out of steep mountains. At every turn you tightened your grip and prayed that the bus wouldn't just drive off the cliff. The lofty peaks above were covered with nimbus fog. You couldn't see a thing. These mountains are prone to cloudburst which is one of the most dangerous natural disasters around here. I know there is a beautiful view of the snow capped mountains from the top, however, we couldn't see much due to the heavy fog.  We stepped out at the peak to experience the weather and the cold chilled us to the bones. Soon, we had to start on our return journey - maybe I can come back again!!




Manali is an experience that no one should miss - We stayed just for two days and realized that it was not enough. Also, we went during the wrong season where mostly it rained and spoiled our chances of doing paragliding or enjoying the snow clad Rohtang. However, whatever we saw was an absolute delight and left me hungry for more. 


Sunday 5 October 2014

Haridwar, Rishikesh - A trip to Devbhoomi

Haridwar/Hardwar is a paradise for pilgrims & nature lovers as it presents a kaleidoscope of Indian culture and civilization. It is the gateway to the four pilgrimages of Uttarkhand – Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, Yamnotri. It is also one of the four venues for the Kumbh Mela, held in its magnitude every twelve years – the other three being Nasik, Ujjain & Allahabad. Haridwar/Hardwar literally means 'The gateway to the Gods'. If you can see that the name is spelled in two ways - "Dwar" means entrance whereas "Har" means Shiva and "Hari" means Vishnu, basis the believers who believes it to be the land of Shiva or Vishnu (an age long debate that still remains undecided). The Ganga leaves the mountains and enters the plains here. Maa Ganges doesn't lose its rapids fully nevertheless it becomes terribly quiet and calm here. It's aforesaid that taking bath here purifies the soul,clear all past sins and opens the approach for the last word freedom, Nirvana.



I had been to Haridwar/Hardwar several times during my childhood with my family, however, this is the first time on my own. We took the afternoon Shatabdi from New Delhi Railway Station and reached Haridwar around 9 pm. We took an auto from the railway station to our hotel "Holy Basil" - an elegantly furnished nice hotel. Would like to mention the heavenly chilli potatoes and the sweet Shikhanji that you get to taste here.

Next morning, after breakfast, we hired a cab to visit Rishikesh. Located in the lap of the lower Himalayas, Rishikesh is surrounded by the scenic beauty of the hills on three sides with the Holy Ganga flowing through it. It is about 20 km from Haridwar/Hardwar and is one of the first towns where Ganga emerges from the mountains to touch the plains and that’s why the water is crystal clear and cool. Though just 45 mins away, Haridwar/Hardwar and Rishikesh are very different is their entire look and feel. Whereas Haridwar/Hardwar thrives on Indian pilgrims and religious beliefs, poojas, donations, Rishikesh apart from the religious aspect, is also acquiring greater significance as a center for white water rafting, revering sports, a base for treks and hikes in the beautiful Garhwal Himalayas. 



While some may ascribe the increasing popularity of Rishikesh to the booming worldwide interest in yoga, in fact people have been gathering at this confluence of nature since the dawn of time to pray, meditate, chant and imbue the peaceful valley with eons of sacred energy. We crossed the river by Lakshman Jhula which is a 450 feet long iron suspension bridge on. You get beautiful view of the river Ganges and the far away mountains of the bridge. The thirteen storey Raghunathji Temple can be seen from the jhula. It teems with foot traffic, scooters, cows and monkeys.  





We walked through the narrow streets and then took a 'Vikram' (a large auto) to Ram Jhula (the second bridge constructed years later to balance the two way traffic). We had lunch at the famous choti wala restaurant where a Choti wala guy is at the entrance welcoming you. The vegetarian thali was simple but delicious and as I told my mom later, I can become a vegetarian if I get food like that on a daily basis. 



There is a feeling in Rishikesh unlike anywhere else. The vibe is both relaxed and reverent — and consequently attracts genuine Hindu devotees and gurus as well as western hippies and spiritual devotees. I wished we had more time to spend here, however, since we just have one day in Devbhoomi, had to rush back Haridwar/Hardwar to reach well before time for the famous Ganga Aarti which commences when the sun sets every single day. On our way back, we spotted a huge statue of Lord Shiva about 1/2 km from the main ghat. 



After that, we headed straight to the Har Ki Pauri ghat. You can see a bustle of activity on the ghats. The place was swarming with people of all shapes and sizes. The river was flowing in full force. It was amazing to see people taking a dip in the cold water amidst the strong tides. The barriers of caste and creed had disappeared with people from all echelons of society uniting on the lap of Maa Ganga. This is just the magic of faith which takes away fear and all other negativities from the mind of people. Many babas are seen sitting in corners, hoping to get some donations from the devotees. 





We managed to get ourselves a place right across the river, where we we would get the perfect view of the Ganga Aarti.  Men in blue uniform move around with a receipt book, collecting donations that will be used for conducting the Aarti. People keep walking in all directions trying to find a good place to sit or stand. Hawkers sell wick lamps or diyas to float in the Ganges. A pack of diya comes fully equipped and is self-sufficient! It has a wick lamp surrounded by flowers. There is even a matchbox to light the lamp, so you don’t need to run around looking for one! Two incense sticks also come with it and the whole thing is assembled in a bowl like pack made of stitched leaves.We dipped our feet in the water and also got pulled into offering a small puja and float the diyas in the holy river which ended in paying money to the pandas. 




While we were waiting for the Aarti to start, the sky became overcast and it soon it started raining heavily. The plastic sheets which we had spread to sit on was used as a cover by the waiting crowd. All of us kept praying hard that the rain stops and we get to see the Aarti. We are leaving tomorrow and don't want to miss this world renowned spectacle at any cost. The rain gods answered our prayers and soon the weather cleared. The ghat was crowded with bustle of the people. Many can be seen splashing water onto their faces and heads, while others are busy floating leaf diyas in her waters and some just find content by standing transfixed with hands folded and heads bowed down in prayer. The chit-chatter amongst the crowd who had occupied the ghat has risen substantially and so has the anticipation for the Ganga aarti to commence. Yet, with all this chaos around, surprisingly it was amazing peaceful to sit there & experience the Ganges. Beyond the mystic aura and mythology, Haridwar/Hardwar can cast a magic spell on any visitor and we spent a couple of hours soaking in the beauty of the peaceful and serene, yet strong and vibrant Ganga. 




Evening time for Ganga Aarti is approximately 05:30 PM in winter and 06:30 in summer. This is the most amazing and soul touching spectacle. A large number of people gather on both the banks of river Ganges to sing its praises. Initially the evening puja happens for about 30 minutes with different ceremonies being performed. During the entire time, the pujaris keep chanting the mantras while couple of them offered milk, colored powders, fruits to the holy river. 




After that the Ganga Aarti begins. The aarti takes place facing the river. The lamps are lit and circled around by the pandits (Hindu priests) in a clockwise manner, accompanied by chanting or songs in praise of Mother Ganga. The idea is that the lamps acquire the power of the deity. After the ritual is complete, devotees will cup their hands over the flame and raise their palms to their forehead in order to get the Goddess's purification and blessing. The golden hues of floral diyas reflected in the river Ganges present the most enchanting sight. 







The flames of the 21 aartis… the hymns being chanted… the synchronized ringing of the bells… the view of almost 50,000 people seated along both the sides of the Ganges…. the golden reflection of floral diyas in the river… all together formed a mesmerizing and enchanting sight. It was once in a lifetime experience and would remain etched in our memories forever.