Today, I am going to write about another one of my dream trip - The Ellora Caves.
I had actually visited them, when I was 3, along with my parents but hardly remember anything. Then "Kailashe Kelenkari" happened and nothing attracts me better than a Feluda backdrop. It can be very safely said that I grew up with stories of the caves. So, when Rajani mentioned about planning a tour through GHAC, I actually started counting days.
On January 25, 2013 along with Shyamala, Rajani, Nandita and other GHAC members we started our journey from Secunderabad station. One interesting point was that since Nandita's decision to join was last minute, she had a RAC ticket and we had to share a berth tightly packed. Though it was slightly uncomfortable, the cold weather made it easier and proves the point what are friends for :)
We reached Aurangabad early morning and checked into our hotel. After breakfast we did a little sight seeing of the city including Bibi ka Maqbara which is the duplicate Taj Mahal. In the lawn, we also met a group of girls from Sainik School who gave us a short demonstration of their skills and practice techniques. It was infectious to see these girls' energy and enthusiasm.
After lunch, we went straight to the Ellora Caves (29 km north-west of the city) as we needed enough time to explore these caves and knew that the gates will close by 5 pm. The sight that greeted me brought back memories of the Feluda movie and everything that I saw on TV till date. The only disappointing factor was the crowd of people thronging the area as it was a weekend and a very popular destination. It was difficult to capture photographs as you could only see black heads all around.
There are 34 monasteries and temples, extending over more than 2 km, and were dug side by side in the wall of a high basalt cliff. Ellora, with its uninterrupted sequence of monuments dating from A.D. 600 to 1000, brings the civilization of ancient India to life. It has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Caves 1 to 12 are the Buddhist caves which were built in between 5th and 7th centuries A.D. Caves 13 to 29 are the Hindu caves and were built between the mid of sixth century and the end of the eighth century. The Hindu caves occupy the center of the cave complex. Caves 30 to 34 are the Jain caves and their evolution belongs to the ninth and tenth centuries. The Jain caves resemble aspects of Jain philosophy and tradition reflecting a strict sense of asceticism accompanied with exceptional detailed artworks. Spectacular paintings are still visible on the ceilings of these caves.
Since, we didn't had enough time on hand to cover all the caves, we started with Cave 16, also known as the Kailash temple and is the unrivaled centerpiece of Ellora. This is designed to recall Mount Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva – looks like a freestanding, multi-storeyed temple complex, but it was carved out of one single rock. Within the courtyard are two structures. As is traditional in Shiva temples, an image of the sacred bull Nandi fronts the central temple housing the lingam. The Nandi Mandapa and main Shiva temple are each about 7 metres high, and built on two storeys. The lower stories of the Nandi Mandapa are both solid structures, decorated with elaborate illustrative carvings. The base of the temple has been carved to suggest that elephants are holding the structure aloft. The temple itself is a tall pyramidic structure reminiscent of a South Indian temple. There are two Dhwajasthambha (pillars with flagstaff) in the courtyard. The grand sculpture of Ravana attempting to lift Mount Kailasa, with his full might is a landmark in Indian art.
The exquisite work throughout the temple complex left us speechless and I could not stop myself clicking. It is really amazing how people in those days could carve such beautiful sculptures only with the help of chisel in absence of heavy machines like today. These caves can capture your entire day even if you are not a student of history or archaeology.
Next we went to Cave 10 which is a Buddhist cave known as The Vishwakarma. At the front is a rock-cut court, which is entered through a flight of steps. The main hall, with its impressive colonnade, is focused upon a huge teaching Buddha, seated in the bhadrasana pose on a lion throne. A large Bodhi tree is carved at the back. The hall has a vaulted roof in which ribs have been carved in the rock imitating the wooden ones. The main image is flanked by standing attendant bodhisattvas: Avalokitesvara (with his long-stemmed lotus and what may be a ruined Amitabha in his jata headdress) to the left and Manjusri (a stupa in his crown) to the right.
The detail of each carving and the massive statue really leaves you spellbound and you keep wondering about the talent and level of craftsmanship in those days which is unparalleled even today.
We next went to Cave 12 which is locally known as Tin-tal. The eastern wall contains a seated Buddha in bhumisparsa mudra along with two standing figures of Buddha in varada mudra behind. At the center of the transverse hall supported by simple square pillars is a special pillared vestibule leading to the main shrine. The walls of the vestibule each have a cell containing Buddha in the dhyana mudra.
This place is a photographer's paradise and we regretted that we had so little time to enjoy the beauty of all of the caves. You can spend an entire day, yet not be satisfied.
As it was soon going to be closing time, we decided to miss the remaining caves and headed towards Cave 29 or Dhumar Lena which is a large Brahmanical cave with a gallery that overlooks "Sita ki Nahani" a monsoon (seasonal) waterfall and the pond formed by it. There are two ways to reach this cave and we took the road from the Kailasa to the Jaina caves.
This is the largest Brahmanical cave. Two large lions with small elephants under their paws guard the steps which lead to the hall from three sides. The hall is in the form of a cross, the roof supported by 26 massive pillars. There are large sculptures in the front aisles on three sides. In the west aisle, on the south end we find Ravana lifting the Kailas mountain. In the north end, we find Bhairava with two victims. In the west end Siva and Parvati are playing the dice game, Vishnu and Brahma standing on either side.
An interesting feature of this cave is that it lets in light from three directions making it rather better lit than most of the other caves. The setting sun's light on the Dwarapalas flanking the main shrine was beauitful to watch.
Soon it was time for us to leave. The beauty of this architectural marvel is permanently edged in our memories. I definitely would like to come back once more and spend an entire day here. Though we have seen the main caves, it has only increased my desire to see the remaining ones. Celebrating Republic Day in one of India's finest places was actually fulfilling for all of us and gave us the true pride for being an Indian!!
Not only is the Ellora complex a unique artistic creation and a technological exploit but, with its sanctuaries devoted to Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism, it illustrates the spirit of tolerance that was characteristic of ancient India. It can be safely said that Ellora represents the epitome of Indian rock-cut architecture.
If you wish to travel, you can stay at Hotel Kailas that directly faces the caves and is at a stone's throw away. I would definitely like to try that next time I visit. For a virtual tour of the caves, you can also visit http://elloracaves.org/about.php
I had actually visited them, when I was 3, along with my parents but hardly remember anything. Then "Kailashe Kelenkari" happened and nothing attracts me better than a Feluda backdrop. It can be very safely said that I grew up with stories of the caves. So, when Rajani mentioned about planning a tour through GHAC, I actually started counting days.
On January 25, 2013 along with Shyamala, Rajani, Nandita and other GHAC members we started our journey from Secunderabad station. One interesting point was that since Nandita's decision to join was last minute, she had a RAC ticket and we had to share a berth tightly packed. Though it was slightly uncomfortable, the cold weather made it easier and proves the point what are friends for :)
We reached Aurangabad early morning and checked into our hotel. After breakfast we did a little sight seeing of the city including Bibi ka Maqbara which is the duplicate Taj Mahal. In the lawn, we also met a group of girls from Sainik School who gave us a short demonstration of their skills and practice techniques. It was infectious to see these girls' energy and enthusiasm.
 |
| Don't mistake it for the Taj Mahal - it is Bibi ka Maqbara |
 |
| Nandita & I with the girls from Sainik School |
There are 34 monasteries and temples, extending over more than 2 km, and were dug side by side in the wall of a high basalt cliff. Ellora, with its uninterrupted sequence of monuments dating from A.D. 600 to 1000, brings the civilization of ancient India to life. It has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
 |
| View of the entrance to Cave 16 |
Since, we didn't had enough time on hand to cover all the caves, we started with Cave 16, also known as the Kailash temple and is the unrivaled centerpiece of Ellora. This is designed to recall Mount Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva – looks like a freestanding, multi-storeyed temple complex, but it was carved out of one single rock. Within the courtyard are two structures. As is traditional in Shiva temples, an image of the sacred bull Nandi fronts the central temple housing the lingam. The Nandi Mandapa and main Shiva temple are each about 7 metres high, and built on two storeys. The lower stories of the Nandi Mandapa are both solid structures, decorated with elaborate illustrative carvings. The base of the temple has been carved to suggest that elephants are holding the structure aloft. The temple itself is a tall pyramidic structure reminiscent of a South Indian temple. There are two Dhwajasthambha (pillars with flagstaff) in the courtyard. The grand sculpture of Ravana attempting to lift Mount Kailasa, with his full might is a landmark in Indian art.
 |
| The Kailash Temple - Cave 16 |
 |
| Sculpture of Ravana attempting to lift Mount Kailash |
Next we went to Cave 10 which is a Buddhist cave known as The Vishwakarma. At the front is a rock-cut court, which is entered through a flight of steps. The main hall, with its impressive colonnade, is focused upon a huge teaching Buddha, seated in the bhadrasana pose on a lion throne. A large Bodhi tree is carved at the back. The hall has a vaulted roof in which ribs have been carved in the rock imitating the wooden ones. The main image is flanked by standing attendant bodhisattvas: Avalokitesvara (with his long-stemmed lotus and what may be a ruined Amitabha in his jata headdress) to the left and Manjusri (a stupa in his crown) to the right.
 |
| Entrance to Cave 10 |
The detail of each carving and the massive statue really leaves you spellbound and you keep wondering about the talent and level of craftsmanship in those days which is unparalleled even today.
We next went to Cave 12 which is locally known as Tin-tal. The eastern wall contains a seated Buddha in bhumisparsa mudra along with two standing figures of Buddha in varada mudra behind. At the center of the transverse hall supported by simple square pillars is a special pillared vestibule leading to the main shrine. The walls of the vestibule each have a cell containing Buddha in the dhyana mudra.
This place is a photographer's paradise and we regretted that we had so little time to enjoy the beauty of all of the caves. You can spend an entire day, yet not be satisfied.
As it was soon going to be closing time, we decided to miss the remaining caves and headed towards Cave 29 or Dhumar Lena which is a large Brahmanical cave with a gallery that overlooks "Sita ki Nahani" a monsoon (seasonal) waterfall and the pond formed by it. There are two ways to reach this cave and we took the road from the Kailasa to the Jaina caves.
This is the largest Brahmanical cave. Two large lions with small elephants under their paws guard the steps which lead to the hall from three sides. The hall is in the form of a cross, the roof supported by 26 massive pillars. There are large sculptures in the front aisles on three sides. In the west aisle, on the south end we find Ravana lifting the Kailas mountain. In the north end, we find Bhairava with two victims. In the west end Siva and Parvati are playing the dice game, Vishnu and Brahma standing on either side.
An interesting feature of this cave is that it lets in light from three directions making it rather better lit than most of the other caves. The setting sun's light on the Dwarapalas flanking the main shrine was beauitful to watch.
Soon it was time for us to leave. The beauty of this architectural marvel is permanently edged in our memories. I definitely would like to come back once more and spend an entire day here. Though we have seen the main caves, it has only increased my desire to see the remaining ones. Celebrating Republic Day in one of India's finest places was actually fulfilling for all of us and gave us the true pride for being an Indian!!
Not only is the Ellora complex a unique artistic creation and a technological exploit but, with its sanctuaries devoted to Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism, it illustrates the spirit of tolerance that was characteristic of ancient India. It can be safely said that Ellora represents the epitome of Indian rock-cut architecture.
If you wish to travel, you can stay at Hotel Kailas that directly faces the caves and is at a stone's throw away. I would definitely like to try that next time I visit. For a virtual tour of the caves, you can also visit http://elloracaves.org/about.php
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