Bishnupur is a town in the Bankura District of West Bengal about 132 km from Kolkata. It is famous for its terracotta temples and baluchari sarees. The town has a glorious past that is reflected in its rich architecture, music and handicrafts such as pottery and weaving. Terracotta literally means baked earth in Italian but West Bengal has the distinction of housing some of the finest terracotta art in the world. The terracotta art reached its pinnacle under the patronage of the Malla Kings of Bishnupur during the seventeenth century. From my childhood, I used to see the Terracota horse from Bishnupur, which was an integral part of our household decorations. However, all these days, never got to visit the place where it is all made. So, one fine June morning, I decided to visit this historical town to see the work myself.
First, we went to see the famous "Rasmancha". The Rashmancha pavilion used for housing the idols of Lord Krishna from other temples during the Rash festival was built in brick by King Veer Hambir in 1600 A.D. This is the oldest brick temple in Bishnupur and is shaped as an elongated pyramidal tower surrounded by hut-shaped turrets. The outermost gallery is elegantly surrounded by Bengal hut-type roofs.The floor is paved with bricks.The entire structure stands on high platform made up of laterite blocks. Good quality clay is locally available in plenty for making the bricks and terracotta plaques used in the construction of the temples and decorative images. It is not a temple and hence does not house any idol but during the festival of Ras all the idols from different temples of Bishnupur are brought at the Rashmancha for public display. Sadly apart from a few floral lotus motif the Rasmancha does not contain any terracotta art work.
Next we went to see the Madanmohan Temple. This single pinnacled temple has some of the finest terracotta in the whole of Bishnupur and shouldn’t be missed. Built in1694 by Malla King Durjan Singh the star attraction of Madan Mohan is its intricate terracotta. The temple is dedicated to Lord Madan Mohan (an incarnation of Bishnu) and is still an active temple. There are impressive scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Puranas carved on the temple walls. The temple is the best example in brick of Ratha or chariot style architecture with a single sikhara(tower) and a curve Bengali chala type roof.
The work was intricate and very beautiful. One wonders the amount of efforts that has been put in to create this architecture. However, it is sad to see, that some of the panels are blackening over exposure for a long period to sun and rain.
After this, we moved out of the main town to see the Shyamrai Temple popularly known as the Pachchura temple, because of its five pinnacles. Built by Mallaraja Raghunath Singha in 1643 this is terracotta at its best. Approached by triple arched entrance on all the four sides the Shyamrai Temple contains terracotta on all its four sides including the inner walls and the pinnacles. The Ras Chakra and love making scenes of Radha – Krishna are the most sort after terracotta panels of the Shyamrai Temple.
Next we went to see the Temple of Keshto Rai, which is just a short distance away. It follows the jora bangle style of architecture and hence is popularly known as the Jore Bangle Temple. Jora Bangla type of temple consisted of two Bengal styled thatched roof like structure joined together, in the case of Kestorai Temple the joined structures are crowned with a turret. The 1655 built temple is considered as one of the finest example of Bengal terracotta art. There are numerous panels covering a wide range of topics. Panels of ships and boats are quiet in the temple. There are also several panels from the two great epics but a panel depicting Bishma is sarasajya (bed of arrows) stands out among all.
Just next to the Kestorai Temple is the Radhashyam Temple. This Ek – ratna (Single Pinnacled) temple is built of laterite stone and contains lime stone stucco decoration. The temple is enclosed with high walls and is entrance consists of a triple domed Islamic style gateway.
It is possible to spend couple of days in Bishnupur studying the beautiful temple architecture and the terracotta work. However, since, I only had plan for a day, it was soon time for me to leave. So, we decided to head back to the main town to see the other attraction of Bishnupur (apart from the temples) - The massive Dalmadal Canon. The 1742 built cannon weighs 112 quintal and measures 3.8 meter with a diameter of 30 cm. Legend has it that when the Marathas attacked Bishnupur in 1742 Lord Madan Mohan himself fired the gun to drive them away. It was heart breaking to see the beauty of the canon marred by modern houses surrounding it.
Before leaving Bishnupur, our last stop was the Tourist lodge for lunch. The decor of this hotel matches the intricacies of the historical town. We had authentic bengali lunch there and the taste was amazing.
The trip was an amazing experience as it connects you to the art and architecture of rural Bengal. I wish I had some more time to visit the market and to shop for some terracotta pottery and visit the weavers house to see the making of the famous "Baluchari" saree. Maybe I will come back again some day....
First, we went to see the famous "Rasmancha". The Rashmancha pavilion used for housing the idols of Lord Krishna from other temples during the Rash festival was built in brick by King Veer Hambir in 1600 A.D. This is the oldest brick temple in Bishnupur and is shaped as an elongated pyramidal tower surrounded by hut-shaped turrets. The outermost gallery is elegantly surrounded by Bengal hut-type roofs.The floor is paved with bricks.The entire structure stands on high platform made up of laterite blocks. Good quality clay is locally available in plenty for making the bricks and terracotta plaques used in the construction of the temples and decorative images. It is not a temple and hence does not house any idol but during the festival of Ras all the idols from different temples of Bishnupur are brought at the Rashmancha for public display. Sadly apart from a few floral lotus motif the Rasmancha does not contain any terracotta art work.
Next we went to see the Madanmohan Temple. This single pinnacled temple has some of the finest terracotta in the whole of Bishnupur and shouldn’t be missed. Built in1694 by Malla King Durjan Singh the star attraction of Madan Mohan is its intricate terracotta. The temple is dedicated to Lord Madan Mohan (an incarnation of Bishnu) and is still an active temple. There are impressive scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Puranas carved on the temple walls. The temple is the best example in brick of Ratha or chariot style architecture with a single sikhara(tower) and a curve Bengali chala type roof.
After this, we moved out of the main town to see the Shyamrai Temple popularly known as the Pachchura temple, because of its five pinnacles. Built by Mallaraja Raghunath Singha in 1643 this is terracotta at its best. Approached by triple arched entrance on all the four sides the Shyamrai Temple contains terracotta on all its four sides including the inner walls and the pinnacles. The Ras Chakra and love making scenes of Radha – Krishna are the most sort after terracotta panels of the Shyamrai Temple.
Next we went to see the Temple of Keshto Rai, which is just a short distance away. It follows the jora bangle style of architecture and hence is popularly known as the Jore Bangle Temple. Jora Bangla type of temple consisted of two Bengal styled thatched roof like structure joined together, in the case of Kestorai Temple the joined structures are crowned with a turret. The 1655 built temple is considered as one of the finest example of Bengal terracotta art. There are numerous panels covering a wide range of topics. Panels of ships and boats are quiet in the temple. There are also several panels from the two great epics but a panel depicting Bishma is sarasajya (bed of arrows) stands out among all.
Just next to the Kestorai Temple is the Radhashyam Temple. This Ek – ratna (Single Pinnacled) temple is built of laterite stone and contains lime stone stucco decoration. The temple is enclosed with high walls and is entrance consists of a triple domed Islamic style gateway.
It is possible to spend couple of days in Bishnupur studying the beautiful temple architecture and the terracotta work. However, since, I only had plan for a day, it was soon time for me to leave. So, we decided to head back to the main town to see the other attraction of Bishnupur (apart from the temples) - The massive Dalmadal Canon. The 1742 built cannon weighs 112 quintal and measures 3.8 meter with a diameter of 30 cm. Legend has it that when the Marathas attacked Bishnupur in 1742 Lord Madan Mohan himself fired the gun to drive them away. It was heart breaking to see the beauty of the canon marred by modern houses surrounding it.
Before leaving Bishnupur, our last stop was the Tourist lodge for lunch. The decor of this hotel matches the intricacies of the historical town. We had authentic bengali lunch there and the taste was amazing.
The trip was an amazing experience as it connects you to the art and architecture of rural Bengal. I wish I had some more time to visit the market and to shop for some terracotta pottery and visit the weavers house to see the making of the famous "Baluchari" saree. Maybe I will come back again some day....
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