Srinagar - The Paradise on Earth

I cannot imagine someone in my generation who has not heard about the beauty of Kashmir and did not long to see it. Political tensions prevented a trip to this beautiful place during our growing up years. However, movies made in the 70s always mesmerized us with the paradise on earth. All girls wanted one chance to be the "Kashmir ki Kali". Though on this occasion I did not get to explore of the entire state, however, I still did get an opportunity to spend a day in Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu & Kashmir. Indulgent houseboats, historic gardens, distinctive Kashmiri wooden mosques and a mild summer climate combine to make Srinagar one of India’s top domestic tourist attractions. 

Our photography group reached Srinagar in the afternoon and we took a car to reach our destination - Morning Star Houseboat in Dal Lake. The surrounding to the airport is congested, however, once we crossed the main market area, we saw the beauty of Srinagar city. It was interesting to see the cone shaped roofs of all the houses - the driver told us it was done to ensure so that snow does not get accumulated in the rooftops. After driving for around 30 minutes, we reached the city’s greatest attraction - the mesmerizing placid Dal Lake. The Dal Lake is Srinagar's jewel, a vast, mirror-flat sheet of water reflecting the carved wooden balconies of the houseboats and the misty peaks of the Pir Panjal mountains. 

On the shore there were flotillas of gaily painted shikaras (gondola-like taxi boats) which skiff around the lake, transporting goods to market, children to school and travellers from houseboat to shore.  I was told there are about 1200 houseboats at the Dal Lake and another 600 or so at Nagin Lake. Each houseboat has their own shikharas and we got into one for a jolly ride in the lake to reach our houseboat Morning Star. The houseboat is an architectural miracle blended with hospitality. The room of the Morning Star Houseboat is adorned with exquisite pieces of walnut wood and with time they have been rendered more or less as artefacts. You need to enter the houseboat through  narrow balcony into a drawing room, after which there is the dining room and finally the bed rooms (2 or 3) with attached bath.

 
We quickly freshened up and had Kahwa (Kashmiri tea) which is extremely refreshing. The tea is made by boiling green tea leaves with saffron strands, cinnamon bark, cardamom pods and occasionally Kashmiri roses to add a great aroma. Generally, it is served with sugar or honey and crushed nuts, usually almonds or walnuts. After that we went for sight seeing. Since it was Ramzan month, we decided to visit the old city and see the beautiful mosques of that area. First we went to the Hazratbal mosque. This 20th-century building enshrines Kashmir’s holiest relic, the Moi-e-Muqqadas, supposedly a beard hair of the Prophet Mohammed. However, we were not allowed inside the mosque and hence decided to spend some time looking at the surrounding market.

The puris that we saw in the market are the biggest we had ever seen. It was extremely tasty to eat along with halwa. We also tasted lotus team fry which is a very common street food here.

Next we went to the Jama Masjid. The mosque forms a quadrangle around a large fountain garden courtyard with monumental brick gatehouses marking each of the four cardinal directions. There’s room for thousands of devotees between 378 roof-support columns, each fashioned from the trunk of a single deodar tree. We reached around evening and had to cover our heads before entering the mosque. Since it was time to break the fast, lot of people had assembled for their evening prayers. It was interesting to see people from different age groups assembled together to offer their prayers and then break their fast together. Also, this is one mosque, we were allowed to go around freely, click photographs without any trouble. 

One interesting thing about Kashmir is that daylight is available till 8 pm and you don't realize it is late evening because of that. 

Next we went to see Khanqah Shah-i-Hamadan. This distinctively spired 1730s Muslim meeting hall is one of Srinagar’s most beautiful, with both frontage and interiors covered in papier-mâché reliefs and elaborately coloured khatamband (faceted wood panelling). Non-Muslim visitors can peek through the door but may not enter.

Next morning, we decided to visit the floating market. The floating market is another interesting aspect of Srinagar. This is not a retail market; vegetable growers come with shikaras laden with leafy greens, water chestnuts, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers and more, to sell to agents of the shops on land. Given tourist interest in this, the market now also has a plethora of shikaras selling flowers, saffron, wood carvings, etc. This is a very old market where the sale and the purchase of vegetables take place between 5 am and to 7 am everyday. Most of the vegetables are grown on the lakeside and retrieved from the lake before being sold in just 2 hours. Any vegetables left over are taken to street markets. 

We got up around 4.45 am to get ready. We started cruising on the lake early in the morning in darkness as dawn was breaking out. The stillness of water, the tranquility of surroundings broken only by the calls for prayers from distant mosques in the city provided for a thrilling experience. Fortunately it wasn't raining though the sky was overcast. The cruise on Dal lake is slow and manual. Thank heavens for that. The manual rowing of the boat ensure that tranquility of the lake is not disturbed.

We must have reached there around 6.00 am. The market was not very big, that is the first thing I could register. The second thing I noticed that there were other tourist boats, maybe 3-4 more. By Indian definitions that was not crowded or touristy at all. This is a local vegetable market where wholesale vendors sell to retail vendors. Because of the tourists a few boats sell flowers and snacks too. Shikaras jostle with each-other in the local market. They make way by pushing and nudging the boats. Having noticed that we are outsiders and tourists, few hawkers came closer to us asking us to buy different products - flowers, saffron, jewellery. The buyers had come in their own boats and we could see them bargaining with the wholesalers for the best price. Soon after an hour, we could see all the vegetables/flowers transferred from wholesalers to retailers and boats moving away slowly. 

 

It was a beautiful and unforgettable experience - something to be cherished forever. 

I wish I could spend some more time in Srinagar. However, I know I would definitely come back!!

Bishnupur - The land of Terracotas

Bishnupur is a town in the Bankura District of West Bengal about 132 km from Kolkata. It is famous for its terracotta temples and baluchari sarees. The town has a glorious past that is reflected in its rich architecture, music and handicrafts such as pottery and weaving. Terracotta literally means baked earth in Italian but West Bengal has the distinction of housing some of the finest terracotta art in the world. The terracotta art reached its pinnacle under the patronage of the Malla Kings of Bishnupur during the seventeenth century. From my childhood, I used to see the Terracota horse from Bishnupur, which was an integral part of our household decorations. However, all these days, never got to visit the place where it is all made. So, one fine June morning, I decided to visit this historical town to see the work myself. 

First, we went to see the famous "Rasmancha". The Rashmancha pavilion used for housing the idols of Lord Krishna from other temples during the Rash festival was built in brick by King Veer Hambir in 1600 A.D. This is the oldest brick temple in Bishnupur and is shaped as an elongated pyramidal tower surrounded by hut-shaped turrets. The outermost gallery is elegantly surrounded by Bengal hut-type roofs.The floor is paved with bricks.The entire structure stands on high platform made up of laterite blocks. Good quality clay is locally available in plenty for making the bricks and terracotta plaques used in the construction of the temples and decorative images. It is not a temple and hence does not house any idol but during the festival of Ras all the idols from different temples of Bishnupur are brought at the Rashmancha for public display. Sadly apart from a few floral lotus motif the Rasmancha does not contain any terracotta art work.

Next we went to see the Madanmohan Temple. This single pinnacled temple has some of the finest terracotta in the whole of Bishnupur and shouldn’t be missed. Built in1694 by Malla King Durjan Singh the star attraction of Madan Mohan is its intricate terracotta. The temple is dedicated to Lord Madan Mohan (an incarnation of Bishnu) and is still an active temple. There are impressive scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Puranas carved on the temple walls. The temple is the best example in brick of Ratha or chariot style architecture with a single sikhara(tower) and a curve Bengali chala type roof.

The work was intricate and very beautiful. One wonders the amount of efforts that has been put in to create this architecture. However, it is sad to see, that some of the panels are blackening over exposure for a long period to sun and rain. 

After this, we moved out of the main town to see the Shyamrai Temple popularly known as the Pachchura temple, because of its five pinnacles. Built by Mallaraja Raghunath Singha in 1643 this is terracotta at its best. Approached by triple arched entrance on all the four sides the Shyamrai Temple contains terracotta on all its four sides including the inner walls and the pinnacles. The Ras Chakra and love making scenes of Radha – Krishna are the most sort after terracotta panels of the Shyamrai Temple.

Next we went to see the Temple of Keshto Rai, which is just a short distance away. It follows the jora bangle style of architecture and hence is popularly known as the Jore Bangle Temple. Jora Bangla type of temple consisted of two Bengal styled thatched roof like structure joined together, in the case of Kestorai Temple the joined structures are crowned with a turret.  The 1655 built temple is considered as one of the finest example of Bengal terracotta art. There are numerous panels covering a wide range of topics. Panels of ships and boats are quiet in the temple. There are also several panels from the two great epics but a panel depicting Bishma is sarasajya (bed of arrows) stands out among all.

Just next to the Kestorai Temple is the Radhashyam Temple. This Ek – ratna (Single Pinnacled) temple is built of laterite stone and contains lime stone stucco decoration. The temple is enclosed with high walls and is entrance consists of a triple domed Islamic style gateway. 

It is possible to spend couple of days in Bishnupur studying the beautiful temple architecture and the terracotta work. However, since, I only had plan for a day, it was soon time for me to leave. So, we decided to head back to the  main town to see the other attraction of Bishnupur (apart from the temples) - The massive Dalmadal Canon. The 1742 built cannon weighs 112 quintal and measures 3.8 meter with a diameter of 30 cm. Legend has it that when the Marathas attacked Bishnupur in 1742 Lord Madan Mohan himself fired the gun to drive them away. It was heart breaking to see the beauty of the canon marred by modern houses surrounding it.

Before leaving Bishnupur, our last stop was the Tourist lodge for lunch. The decor of this hotel matches the intricacies of the historical town. We had authentic bengali lunch there and the taste was amazing. 

The trip was an amazing experience as it connects you to the art and architecture of rural Bengal. I wish I had some more time to visit the market and to shop for some terracotta pottery and visit the weavers house to see the making of the famous "Baluchari" saree. Maybe I will come back again some day....

Bagora - Exploring lesser known destination in North Bengal

Sometimes we feel the urge of exploring some lesser known destinations during our trips. Bagora, a quaint village, located at a height of 7100 feet above sea level, in the Darjeeling district is one such destination. Nestled amidst pine forests and rhododendron trees with majestic views of Mt. Kanchenjungha and the meandering River Teesta, this romantic getaway is the perfect spot for a quaint holiday away from the hustle and bustle of Darjeeling town. Perched on a ridge at 2,339 metres above sea level, this town in north Bengal is still unspoiled by the demands of tourism. 

Our train reached New Jalpaiguri around 7 am where we met our Sherpa driver Nobula who drove us through the serpentine Hill Cart Road (NH 55) — intertwining with the toy train tracks — from Siliguri. The drive was awesome, misty roads with cool breeze, and made me nostalgic. This is one road I have traveled almost every year during my childhood days - summer holidays to Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok were like a ritual as my mom and me are both big fans of North Bengal. 

We crossed Kurseong and then stopped at Margaret Hope's Tea Center (remember Aparna Sen's iconic movie "Titli") shop to pick up Darjeeling Tea. The tea estates seen on one side of the road are mystic and beautiful to watch. I was in love all over again :)

We drove up to Dilaram before taking the right turn. The 3 km road stretch is like a long black ribbon lying in a virgin green forest of silver fir, oak, pine and birch. The forest is richer than those near Darjeeling. On reaching Bagora, we checked into our home stay "Diki House", situated on a hillock. The place is managed by a lady (Diki Lama) and her family.  Like all hilly folks, she is fair and always smiling and her cheeks are red like a tomato. The rooms were comfortable with all the modern amenities (TV is not available due to signal challenges) and we got amazing home cooked meals for lunch and dinner.  The place gives a bird’s eye view of the entire settlement with the mighty Kanchenjunga for backdrop. However, the thick fog prevented me from viewing the Kanchenjunga in its might.

There was a small village school nearby and we could see the kids bustling with excitement during the lunch hour. The innocent faces of these kids were really cute and I could not resist some shots of their innocence.

After lunch, we rested for sometime and then decided to go for a walk. I walked till the Forest Rest House and the timber yard and the start of the Kurseong Air Force base camp. 

During my walk, we also met a group of kids returning from their school and the excitement on the faces of these kids were really infectious.

The flora and fauna on both sides of the roads were also a treat to watch. It is hard to believe that these orchids are growing on the street sides and not on a specialized garden.

Scenery and serenity come together in Bagora, offering a soothing refuge from the frenetic city life. A couple of days stay at Bagora gives you the feel of mystic deciduous forestry all around with huge Sal and Dhupi Trees, innumerable chirping birds everywhere and suddenly appearing and disappearing small fog accumulations. Apart from taking long walks, there's not much to do but relax - A very good option if you are looking for a place to relax in the mountains and yet want to stay away from the crowd of the more popular destinations!!

Pochampally - Where Colour meets Creativity!!

Pochampally is the most typical weaving village in Nalgonda District of Telangana. It is the place where threads and colours find their way into the hands of skillful weavers and meander into the market as beautiful sarees and dress material  Every member of the artisan household is closely integrated with the intricate tie-and-dye process of Ikkat weaving. The craft has earned a reputation worldwide and a glimpse at the dexterous village folk explains why this enduring tradition has not only survived but also thrived! 

On a Sunday morning, I joined the TCPC gang of photographers for a tour of this village. It is about 60 KM from Hitech city in Hyderabad and if you start early you can reach Bhoodan Pochampally in about 1.5 hours. It was the day of Sankranti and hence the first sight that greeted us was colorful rangolis in front of the village houses - the artistic touch to it clearly displayed the creativity of these simple villagers.

Our next stop was the Pochampally Museum. The complex is situated next to a serene lake called Pochampally Cheruvu, and looks more like a sprawling bungalow, but when you look at the huge gate you see the signboard of the Rural Tourism complex. Inside the complex is a statue of both Vinoba Bhave and Sri Ram Chandra Reddy the Zamindar or landlord who came up with the idea of donating land. (This was before land grabbing became an issue of prestige for the rich and powerful in India). This reminded me that Pochampally is also known for being the launch pad for Acharya Vinoba Bhave's Bhoodan Movement.

There is a nominal ticket to enter the museum. Although it was a holiday, one of the employees there was kind enough to open the museum for us and we clicked some pictures inside the complex. In one of the rooms there are different kinds of spinning wheels, one made of wood like Bapu Gandhi must have used and then next to it is one made of using a cycle wheel. 

The most interesting was the next room with various kinds of looms that are used in Pochampally village, the guide gave us a demo of how they are used and all of us keenly listened to him and clicked some pictures. 

In next room there are Sarees weaved in different part of Andhra Pradesh are displayed on both mannequins as well as on walls like drapery. It is interesting to know that different part of state have their own distinctive styles of weaving but what is clear is that Pochampally is the most famous of all the styles weaved in the state. There was also a weaved portrait of Acharya Vinobha Bhave.

Overall it was a good experience to start from the museum and rural tourism complex before we visited other places in the Pochampally village to see the weaving process—tying and dyeing, color boiling, bobbin weaving and finally the finished fabric. 

We saw an open door after entering the village and we just barged in and requested if we can see how the saree is made. The family members were very happy to see us and welcomed with open heart. We settled down to observe the process of preparing a saree all by hand and were simply astonished for the amount of work that goes into one single saree. The person who was working there mentioned that it takes almost 4 days of continuous work (10 hours each day) to get one saree ready. The precision with which she was working was simply immaculate. For this rigorous and precise effort that she puts in day in and day out, all that she earns is Rs. 600 per saree, which makes it a meager Rs. 4500 per month. Any guess how much would that same saree cost in the market? I am sure atleast few of you might have guessed it right. It costs a minimum of Rs. 4500.

We thanked the family for the demonstration before leaving. However, when we offered money to them, they sweetly declined clearly showing the simplicity and honesty of these poor villages.

Overall it was a good learning experience for all of us and we had a great time. After watching the process, the only thing left for us was to do some shopping. The group members shopped everything from a saree, kurtis, bags, etc. and finally return home with all the beautiful memories!!